Ever since moving to France, I have been an enthusiast of the Vide Grenier, which translates as ‘empty attic’- or to put it more plainly, what we might know as a ‘Car Boot Sale’…….the season has just got going again, with the arrival of the warm spring weather in the Languedoc (24 degrees again today; bliss).
Vide Greniers are held in every village & town, several times a year, with the best ones being visited by hundreds of people. It’s such a feature of the French calendar, that you can actually buy a regional guide book, in local supermarkets & newspaper shops, which will give you the low down on every vide grenier, flea market (‘Marche aux puces’), brocante (collectables, generally old) & antique fair, for the entire year. Winter fairs are less often & tend to be indoors, usually held in the village ‘Salle des Fêtes’ but they move into the open air as soon as they possibly can. As well as between say, 20 & a 100 stalls, with the goods of individuals, displayed, there is usually a refreshment stall or two, of some description, plus the village bakeries, cafes & shops will be open, even if it’s a Sunday, to take advantage of the increased passing trade. You can usually find one to go to, somewhere within a radius of half an hour of you, every single weekend between March & October. The whole village turns out, which makes for some surprising & sometimes, rather odd finds, with no order or organisation whatsoever; so you’ll find dolls mixed with old tools & vinyl records amongst boxes of electrical wiring bits. Some fairs are not great, some are average & some, sheer, unadulterated, joy; a bargain hunter’s nirvana. What a lovely way to spend a leisurely morning, discovering the geography of a new village, prior to a delicious lunch in a local French restaurant.
When I said I was going to write about Vide Greniers, Jonathan, one of my colleagues remarked, ‘I hate Vide Greniers’ & he’s right; they can be an ocean of general crap, as far as the eye can see. However, amongst the empty Bonne Maman jam jars (people actually sell these), the broken household accessories, the piles of old toys & the heaps of scruffy old clothes (I’ve thrown away better), there are always gems to be found. You just have to become adept at scanning each table, whilst still moving purposefully forward at a steady gait. Stop & examine for more than 10 seconds & you will be ear marked as a buyer: open your mouth & reveal you aren’t even French & you become a target for the persuasive French vendor to either practice his English or his sales skills, or both, to try to extract your hard earned euros from you in exchange for some item you never knew you could live without. People sell new stuff as well, arts & crafts, foods, cakes, plants, flowers & handicrafts.
I am a fan because I love winkling out the gems. Some of my most successful purchases include a bronze cast flying gull statue from the 1920′s (40 euros); various, tall, enamelled metal jugs in varying sizes, which you can pick up for approx 10 euros each, which look amazing when repainted (I had planned to sell these, but have never yet been able to bear to part with any of my masterpieces); a really ancient French Monopoly game which pre-dates the Waddingtons version, with wooden houses & hotels & lead playing pieces; any number of antique china jugs, bowls & soap dishes; a beautiful Thierry Mugler striped jacket; brand new Yves St Laurent make-up items for 3 euros each & some really great pieces of French fabric which I have used to reupholster furniture & make curtains. They are a good source of authentic, French souvenirs & gifts. One of the very best Vide Greniers we ever went to was in the hills in the Dordogne, whilst on a camping holiday 5 years ago. The whole village turned out for this enormous fair, with every garage open to the public, as well as dozens & dozens of stalls. One guy was selling his Tintin red & white moon rocket, incredibly, for just 70 euros. These sell on eBay for anything from £300-500! My husband is an avid Tintin collector, but this thing was approx 4 feet tall & perfect & it looked fairly fragile. Unfortunately as our landrover was already crammed full of camping equipment, 3 kids, a dog, with our 5 bikes on the back, he had to reluctantly walk away, as he just couldn’t see how he could get it home without either breaking it, or sacrificing one of the kids. I can tell you, it was a close run thing. He still laments its loss.
Prior to the ‘Crise’ or recession, we used to find the French vendors were strangers to the art of negotiation on their prices. An offer of below asking price would be met with a straightforward & final, ‘Non’ which left you with no alternative, other than to pay the asking price, or move on. Nowadays I’ve noticed prices have come down & no reasonable offer is ever refused, without at least being strongly considered.
So, where are they? In my area of Herault, over the next few weeks, we have Marseillan Plage, which advertises a ‘Puces Brocante’ every Saturday. Some others include:
Sunday March 18th: � Bessan Herault – 34 (Vide grenier marche aux puces)
Sunday March 25th: Agde
Sun April 1st: Poussan Herault – 34 (Brocante-Puces)
Sun April 8th, Portiragnes Herault – 34 (Vide grenier – brocante Les Oliviers)
Sun April 15th: Pezenas Vide Greniers; antiques capital of the region; this one should be brilliant!
Check out these links for the full Languedoc calendar. You’ll see that they take place any day of the week, with the majority being held on weekends. What a great way to discover a new village & see it in full swing & you never know, you too may come away with your best ever bargain!
http://www.brocorama.com/vide-greniers/languedoc-roussillon
http://vide-greniers.org/agendaRegion.php?region=12&mois=2M&type=1;
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